Spring Vegetable Ragout
Since I decided to go to the next level in locavore-ism and join a community-supported farm this summer, I figured the best thing I can do is ramp up my attitude that food is an adventure. There are sure to be all sorts of unfamiliar vegetables in my weekly harvest share. I also figured I might as start now, rather than waiting for my farm share to start. I began with turnips.
Turnips are something like a potato, but sweeter and less starchy. I’ve heard of people eating mashed turnips, stewed turnips, and so on, but it never sounded appetizing. I suspected I was in for a challenge – how to make turnips into something special.
Thankfully, my lovely aunt Jill recently bought me a copy of Deborah Madison’s farmers’ market cookbook, Local Flavors. When I arrived home with my sackful of turnips, I went straight to it, knowing Deborah would be the one to give me some ideas about what to do with these unfamiliar roots. I found a recipe for a ragout of turnips, kohlrabi, peas, and spinach, which sounded fresh and springlike, although I was driven to look up “ragout” in the dictionary (it’s French by the way, pronounced ra-goo, and means a seasoned stew of meat, fish, or vegetables). I didn’t have all the ingredients listed, but my pantry contents came close enough. Thankfully, the grocery store had kohlrabi (which I’ve eaten before, but always raw as a dipping tool for hummus), and Art of the Table, a gourmet specialty shop near my house, carries the ever-elusive creme fraiche (A note about creme fraiche: this French fermented cream is difficult to find, but if you can find it, buy it! It’s like sour cream on steroids – richer, creamier, more flavorful. It’s a trade up).
Squaring my shoulders, I scrubbed and peeled, chopped and stirred. My stove was spattered with broth by the end, the kitchen was steamy and herb-scented, and Eli looked doubtfully at the bowl of green-and-white that I placed before him at dinner. He left a few bites’ worth in the bottom of the dish, which tells me that this is just a little too green for his taste. I, however, was not disappointed – it was fresh and springlike, just as I’d imagined. The broth was fragrant with thyme and creamy from the creme fraiche. The vegetables were tender and sweet. And I’m certain it beats mashed turnips any day – although I’m wondering if they can pass for mashed potatoes, and if I can get away with that (just as an experiment, rather than out of necessity).
Spring Vegetable Ragout
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 medium sweet onion, chopped
6-8 small turnips, scrubbed and quartered
2-3 small kohlrabi, peeled and quartered
1 teaspoon dried thyme or 1 sprig fresh thyme
sea salt and ground pepper to taste
1 pound green peas (fresh shelled, if you can get them; if not, use frozen)
2-3 handfuls baby spinach, washed and de-stemmed
a couple dollops creme fraiche (about 1/3 cup) or sour cream
4-6 basil leaves, chopped
In a wide pot or deep skillet, melt the butter over medium heat.
Add the onion, turnips, kohlrabi, and thyme, and then add water to cover about halfway. Add salt and pepper to taste. Simmer 12-15 minutes, until the vegetables are fork-tender.
Add the peas and spinach, and cook until the spinach is wilted and tender. Stir in the creme fraiche or sour cream and the basil. Taste again and adjust seasonings as needed.
Serve in bowls, as the broth will be runny. Goes well with roast chicken or grilled salmon, or as a vegetarian main dish alongside pasta.
