The Almost-Northland Scramble

Grand Rapids is full of good breakfast eateries, but my favorite is the Real Food Cafe in the Alger Heights neighborhood. Their menu is anything but ordinary – popular dishes include the Veggie Hash (a delectably meatless combo of potatoes, bell peppers, fresh spinach, mushrooms, and cheddar cheese, topped with two eggs cooked to order), Banana Granola Pancakes (plate-sized; two or more can share a stack), and a series of “scrambles” (eggs scrambled with ingredients on a theme – Southwestern, Polish, and the like).

Eli’s and my habit is to order two dishes – one savory, one sweet – and share, so as to get the best of both worlds. We rotate choices from the sweet menu (pancakes, stuffed French toasts, Belgian waffles with any number of toppings), but our standby savory pick is the Northland Scramble, in which local eggs are tossed with applewood smoked bacon, homefried potatoes, chopped scallions, cheddar cheese, and just enough sour cream to add some tang. It never disappoints.

A couple of Saturday mornings ago, I was craving a visit to Real Food Cafe, so I attempted my own version of the Northland. I was out of scallions, so I added some sweet yellow onion to the potatoes while they were frying, but other than that, it turned out pretty true to course. A few slices of homemade toast on the side and I was one happy chick.

Make this in a cast iron skillet if you have one. It only takes the one pan if you do things in steps, and the cooking goes pretty fast. (Shortcut: bake the potato(es) in the microwave first, wrapped in a cloth napkin or thin cotton dish towel. Then just cut them up and all they’ll need is a few minutes of frying time.) Fry the potatoes and onions in a little bit of the leftover bacon grease – you can’t top the flavor, and if you’re using nitrite-free pastured organic pork, there are benefits to be had from a little bacon fat. So just buy the right bacon, y’all.

Serve this to your husband, boyfriend, or whoever sits across from you at breakfast, and I guarantee they’ll groan with contentment at the first bite.

The Almost-Northland Scramble


8 slices bacon from organic, grass-fed pork, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 large or 2 small russet potatoes, scrubbed
1 medium sweet yellow onion, chopped
6 large eggs, whisked together with 1/4 cup whole milk
1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1/4 cup light sour cream

Fry the bacon in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat, watching closely so that it doesn’t burn.

Meanwhile, wrap the potatoes in a cloth napkin or cotton dish towel and bake in the microwave on high 5-7 minutes. Cut into bite-sized chunks.

When the edges of the bacon are just beginning to get crispy, remove to a plate layered with paper towels. Set aside.

Pour off all but a tablespoon or so of the bacon grease from the pan (drain it into a coffee cup of ramekin – something that can handle the hot fat), place back over the heat, and add the onion. Cook until tender, stirring every so often. When the onion is soft, add the potatoes, stirring together until just browned and a little crispy. Remove from the pan to a plate and set aside.

The pan should still be well-greased, but add a little more fat if it seems necessary. Pour in the egg mixture. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon or spatula until curds begin to form. Add the cheese. When the cheese is melted, stir in the bacon, potato and onion mixture, and sour cream until just combined – don’t overmix.

Remove from the heat and serve with toast, fresh fruit (orange or pineapple is perfect), and the best coffee you can make.

Serves 4.